SUON KHO (PORK RIBS IN SAVORY CARAMEL SAUCE)
A richness permeates these ribs, which are first marinated, then grilled until charred and finally simmered in a bittersweet caramel sauce. They become so dark and savory that some people mistake them for beef. For Tet festivities in northern Vietnam, pigs are often slaughtered to celebrate the Lunar New Year, and this preparation is among the best ways to use the ribs. It reheats and freezes well, a perfect make-ahead dish for the holiday since it's a time when everyone is supposed to relax rather than work hard in the kitchen. Pair the ribs with a side of dua hanh to cut their richness, and serve with rice and stir-fried greens to round out the meal.
Provided by Andrea Nguyen
Categories dinner, meat, main course
Time 4h
Yield 4 servings
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Cut each rib strip between the bones or cartilage into individual ribs. In a large bowl, combine the onion, pepper, 3 tablespoons fish sauce and 1 tablespoon sugar. Mix well. Add the ribs and use your fingers or a large spoon to mix well, coating all the ribs evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. (Set out at room temperature for 45 minutes before proceeding.)
- When ready to cook, heat an outdoor grill or broiler with a rack set 4 inches away from the heat source to high. When the grill is ready, you should be able to hold your hand over the grate for only 2 to 3 seconds.
- Meanwhile, make the caramel sauce: In a large pot, stir together the vinegar, remaining 6 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon water over medium heat until the sugar nearly dissolves, 60 to 90 seconds. Cook without stirring until champagne yellow, about 3 minutes, then continue cooking for another 1 to 2 minutes, frequently picking up the pan and swirling it to control the caramelization. When the mixture is a dark tea color (expect faint smoking), turn off the heat and keep the pan on the burner. Let the caramelization continue until the mixture is burgundy in color, 1 to 2 minutes. Slide the pan to a cool burner and add 3 tablespoons water, stirring to dissolve the sugar. (If needed, rewarm over medium heat to loosen.)
- Remove the ribs from the marinade, reserving the onion, and sear the ribs on the grill, turning as needed, so they pick up some charred edges and grill marks on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes total. (Or broil the ribs on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet until tinged brown and a bit charred, 6 to 8 minutes per side.)
- Add the ribs with any cooking juices to the pot with the caramel sauce. Add the reserved onion, the remaining 3 tablespoons fish sauce and enough water to almost cover the ribs, about 4 cups. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Don't skim the scum that rises to the surface or you will remove some of the seasoning.
- Lower the heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook for 45 minutes. Uncover, stir the ribs and adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers vigorously. Cook until the ribs feel tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, about 20 minutes. Lower the heat if you need to cook longer. The sauce will have reduced somewhat, but there will still be a generous amount.
- Remove from the heat and let stand for a few minutes so that the fat collects on the surface, then use a ladle or spoon to skim it off. (Or, to make the task much easier, let cool, cover and refrigerate overnight. Discard the congealed chilled fat.) Return to a simmer and taste the sauce. Add extra fish sauce to create a deeper savory flavor, or water to lighten the flavor. Transfer to a shallow bowl and sprinkle the scallion greens on top. Serve immediately.
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- Cut each rib strip between the bones or cartilage into individual riblets. In a large bowl, combine the onion, sugar, pepper, and 3 tablespoons of the fish sauce and mix well. Add the riblets and use your fingers or a large spoon to mix well, coating all the riblets evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.
- Remove the bowl from the refrigerator about 45 minutes before searing. For the best flavor, use a grill to sear the riblets. Prepare a hot charcoal fire (you can hold your hand over the rack for only 2 to 3 seconds) or heat a gas grill to high. Remove the riblets from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and sear the riblets on the grill on all sides, turning as needed, for about 10 minutes total. Some charred edges and grill marks will deepen the flavor.
- Alternatively, position a rack as close to the heat source as possible and preheat the broiler for 20 minutes to get it nice and hot. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and arrange the riblets on the pan. Broil, turning once, for 6 to 8 minutes on each side, or until tinged brown and a bit charred.
- Transfer the seared riblets, the reserved marinade, and any cooking juices to 6-quart Instant, and add the remaining 3 tablespoons fish sauce, the caramel sauce, and water almost to cover (about 2 cups). Lock the lid in place then program to cook at high pressure for 13 to 15 minutes (use more time if you want tender ribs; I use less time because I like a bit of chew). Once done, let the Instant Pot depressurize naturally for 12 minutes before releasing pressure and unlocking the lid. (Or, cook the ribs in a 5-quart Dutch oven. Simmer them, covered, for about 45 minutes; resist removing the scum that rises to the top because it’s part of the flavor.)
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- Cut each rib strip between the bones or through the cartilage into individual riblets. Combine the onion, sugar, pepper and 2 tablespoons of the fish sauce in a bowl. Add the riblets, cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight.
- If necessary, adjust your broiler rack so that the ribs will cook as close to the flame as possible. Heat the broiler for 30 minutes to get it nice and hot.
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