SALADE PETATOU (WARM GOAT CHEESE AND POTATO SALAD) RECIPE
A nice warm bistro is usually the best antidote to January, with flowers and Burgundy and black-and-white photos of Paris guaranteed to recalibrate the bleakest mood. But the one I wandered into on a particularly nasty night turned out to have an even more effective cure: cheese and potatoes.They were together in a first course called salade petatou, chunks of crumbly Yukon Gold potatoes in vinaigrette baked under a crown of fluffy goat cheese. Ordering it felt like a vote against all those seasonally insensitive salads with tomatoes and asparagus that are everywhere these days. And eating it was like being warmed through, almost from the soul out.Cheese and potatoes are just the ultimate winter ingredients. As irresistible as they each are alone and in any other season, as a team they have the power to cheer you up or calm you down. Both are soothing and easy to eat, not to mention rib-sticking in the best wintry way. The fact that almost any cheese is even better melted only adds to the appeal.All things starchy go with cheese, whether bread or tortillas, rice or pasta, but potatoes meld with it like no other carbohydrates. They're also sturdy enough to absorb all the rich creaminess you can throw at them. No place knows that better than Old Europe, which got the potato rather late in life from South America but has produced many classic cheese pairings.Probably the most famous are gratins, the prototype for American scalloped potatoes, which can be almost obscenely rich and hearty. But potatoes also get mixed up with cheese in pierogi, the Polish answer to ravioli and the ultimate example of the whole adding up to more than the parts, and in airy but oozy gnocchi, with Gorgonzola adding its blue bite.My wake-up salad made me think about how far both potatoes and cheese have come in this country since the first disk of warm chevre was laid on greens in California decades ago. Even the most unambitious supermarket now carries dozens of choices of cheeses beyond American that melt unctuously well over potatoes, whether Swiss Gruyere, French Camembert or even Mexican cheeses such as queso fresco.*Mix and matchAt the same time, the vegetable aisle has sprouted "new" varieties of potatoes. Nothing goes better with cheese than yellow-fleshed Yukon Golds, which not only taste almost like a dairy product but cook up to a nearly creamy consistency -- unless it's heirloom Carolas, with their buttery-tasting flesh, or tiny La Rattes, which roast up even crunchier with a coating of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Cheddar.I'm such a sucker for cheese and potatoes that I have been known to order -- and finish -- cheese fries as an entree. (Canadians would add gravy and call it poutine, and George W. Bush would call that an endorsement.) But in polite company I would always stick to more refined combinations. The most traditional are those gratins, with sliced potatoes layered with grated cheese, moistened with cream and baked until they're soft and creamy inside and crusty on top.Gruyere is the quintessential gratin cheese, especially in the gratin dauphinois dictated by Larousse, although Cheddar will work, or a buttery Brie variation, or even almost any blue cheese. My excessive side, though, likes a gratin modeled on pasta sauce with multiple cheeses: aged Gorgonzola for tang, Italian fontina for almost nutty-tasting creaminess and Parmigiano-Reggiano for roundness and perfect crustiness.No matter what the cheese, the best potatoes for a gratin are Yukon Golds or russets (aka Idahos). Waxy potatoes are specified in plenty of traditional French recipes, but their texture seems to repel the cheese rather than soak it in the way a fluffier, more crumbly type does.Aligot is less well known in this country than gratins but is one of the world's greatest match-ups of cheese and potatoes. Essentially garlicky mashed potatoes with cheese melted in, it originated in the Auvergne region of France, known for its ski slopes and hearty appetites. It seems like a peasant dish, but Michel Bras is almost as well known for his variation on it at his Michelin three-star restaurant as he is for his field-foraged herbs.I have only had aligot in American restaurants and seen it in Larousse, where the photo shows it pulling out like a sheet of rubber that could almost be cut with scissors. And I soon learned why it is so rare here.I found one recipe in Roy Andries de Groot's classic "Auberge of the Flowering Hearth" and crossed it with another from Steven Jenkins, whose 1986 "Cheese Primer" is still without rival. His formula was modeled on one from a Paris restaurant, Ambassade d'Auvergne, using bacon fat, which is traditional, but also creme fraiche, which is not. Otherwise, he and De Groot were on the same ingredients page: russet potatoes, garlic, butter and cheese. Lots of cheese.*Very creamy, very richThe right stuff is fresh curds from Cantal or Salers, which are not available here. Jenkins suggested crescenza or stracchino, both almost gooey Italian cheeses, to produce what he described as the perfect consistency: "homogenous, unctuous and runny without dripping." De Groot said the finished dish should be like "mixed spaghetti and noodles." I wound up with very, very creamy, very rich, very bacony mashed potatoes I wouldn't kick out of my kitchen but that might disappoint anyone with memories of cheese dripping from a spatula like sheets of wet paint.Another cheese-potato marriage from the mountains of Europe is much easier: raclette, a specialty in both the French and Swiss Alps. And if cheese is milk's great leap toward immortality, as someone once put it, raclette is cheese and potatoes' pole vault.A half wheel of cheese is melted, traditionally alongside a fireplace, and scraped off as it turns liquid to be served with boiled small potatoes, cornichons and pickled onions.I once had raclette at a Swiss tourism promotional party, and diners ate all the components in alternating mouthfuls or just dredged the potatoes through the cheese. Not only is the contrast between vegetable and dairy immensely satisfying, but you also understand why the potatoes are there: for easy eating now and digestion later.Not surprisingly, the perfect cheese for raclette is actually labeled Raclette. It comes in a round measuring 13 to 17 inches across but is most often sold in wedges meant for melting for small groups. You can rent or buy a machine to hold and scrape the cheese as it melts, or you can just follow Jenkins' primer: Melt 4-ounce slices on individual plates in a 425-degree oven until the cheese is runny, like pizza without the crust or fondue without the pot. Bread is almost as good as potatoes for dunking in it.*The simple approachJenkins has the best description for the flavor, "beefy," and the cheese needs nothing more once it melts. A glass of Fendant, a Swiss white wine, is traditional with raclette, but he recommends a Beaujolais such as Fleurie or Saint-Amour.The French have other direct ways to serve cheese with potatoes, though. Vacherin, when it is really, really ripe, can be dip and bowl for sliced potatoes: It gets so runny it is almost the consistency of cream when you slice off the top of a whole round of cheese and dunk the potato slices.But the easiest way to combine potatoes and cheese beyond that may be the bistro salad I came across. Petatou loosely translates as "timbale," which means it was just a layer of warm, well-dressed, crumbly potato chunks packed into a ring and topped with soft, creamy goat cheese. Extra vinaigrette and mounds of olives were arranged around it on the plate, to make each bite a little sharper and richer.Salade petatou is also sometimes made with a layer of sauteed shiitakes or toasted hazelnuts between the potatoes and cheese. Either of those can also be used as garnishes instead of olives. But the best presentation is just cheese and potatoes, warmed through.You'll almost wish for stormy weather. Almost.
Provided by Regina Schrambling
Categories VEGETARIAN, SALADS
Time 1h
Yield Serves 4
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Oil 4 (4-inch) baking rings and arrange on an oiled baking sheet.
- Place the potatoes in a saucepan and add water to cover by 2 inches. Add about 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until soft but not falling apart.
- While the potatoes cook, combine the vinegar, shallot, thyme and salt to taste in small bowl. Whisk until smooth, then whisk in the olive oil. Season with black pepper to taste. Set aside.
- Drain the potatoes well and let them stand until cool enough to handle, then peel and transfer to a mixing bowl. Cut them into rough chunks. Add half the reserved vinaigrette. Mix with a rubber spatula until well coated. Taste and add more salt if needed and pepper to taste. Divide the mixture among prepared rings, packing to solidify slightly.
- In a second bowl, combine the goat cheese and cream and blend until smooth. Season lavishly with black pepper. Divide among the prepared rings, smoothing the top on each. Bake 15 to 17 minutes, until the cheese is warmed through.
- Transfer the rings to serving plates with a spatula and remove the rings. Arrange olives alongside or around each salad and drizzle vinaigrette around plate. Serve at once.
PETATOU DE CHEVRE FRAIS (POTATO TART WITH GOAT CHEESE)
Provided by Linda Wells
Categories appetizer
Time 1h15m
Yield Six appetizer servings
Number Of Ingredients 13
Steps:
- Place the potatoes in a pot and cover with cold, salted water. Cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain, peel and slice into 1/2-inch rounds.
- Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks, then gently fold in the egg yolk. Set aside.
- In a bowl, whisk together the vinegar with half the herbs and shallots. Slowly whisk in the oil. Set aside.
- Season the potatoes with salt and pepper to taste. Toss with the remaining herbs, the shallots and all but 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette. Place the potatoes in the bottom of 6 small metal pastry rings set on a cookie sheet. Place a slice of cheese on top of each, pressing the cheese with a spoon to the edge of the ring. Refrigerate for half an hour.
- Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
- Remove the rings from the potatoes. Place the potato-cheese rounds in the oven for 7 minutes. Spread 1 tablespoon of cream on top of each and glaze briefly under the broiler. With a spatula, carefully transfer to 6 small plates. Garnish with mesclun and drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over all.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 739, UnsaturatedFat 38 grams, Carbohydrate 34 grams, Fat 62 grams, Fiber 5 grams, Protein 15 grams, SaturatedFat 21 grams, Sodium 807 milligrams, Sugar 7 grams
GAME CHIPS
Provided by Linda Wells
Categories appetizer, side dish
Time 20m
Yield Eight to 10 servings
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Heat the oil in a heavy skillet to 360 degrees or until the oil begins to ripple on the surface.
- When ready, drain the potatoes and pat thoroughly dry.
- Place approximately a half cup of potatoes at a time into hot oil. Fry for two to three minutes, or until golden.
- Remove the potatoes from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain in a single layer on a paper bag.
- Sprinkle with salt and herbs.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 996, UnsaturatedFat 80 grams, Carbohydrate 47 grams, Fat 90 grams, Fiber 4 grams, Protein 6 grams, SaturatedFat 6 grams, Sodium 479 milligrams, Sugar 2 grams, TransFat 1 gram
HOT BLUEBERRIES
Steps:
- In a large skillet, over low heat, melt the butter. Add the berries, sprinkle with the sugar and cook until they give off their liquid and collapse, about eight minutes. Remove from the heat.
- Serve hot over the vanilla ice cream.
RISOTTO WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Provided by Linda Wells
Categories dinner, main course
Time 20m
Yield 4 - 6 servings
Number Of Ingredients 13
Steps:
- Cut the mushrooms into one-inch pieces. There should be about four cups.
- Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the onions. Cook, stirring, until the onions are wilted. Add the rice and cook, stirring, about one minute. Add the wine and cook, stirring, about two minutes or until the wine is absorbed.
- Add the four cups of simmering broth and cook over moderately high heat.
- Heat four tablespoons of the oil in a skillet and add the garlic and bay leaves. Cook briefly and add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring, about two minutes, and sprinkle with salt, pepper and parsley. Cook about one minute more, stirring, and remove the garlic clove and bay leaves.
- When the rice has cooked eight minutes, add the mushrooms. Continue cooking, stirring often from the bottom, about two to five minutes, or until the rice is creamy but with the grains slightly resilient to the bite. Sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and stir. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese on the side.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 450, UnsaturatedFat 11 grams, Carbohydrate 65 grams, Fat 16 grams, Fiber 3 grams, Protein 8 grams, SaturatedFat 4 grams, Sodium 800 milligrams, Sugar 2 grams, TransFat 0 grams
COLD STUFFED ROAST OF VEAL
Provided by Linda Wells
Categories dinner, roasts, main course
Time 2h30m
Yield Eight to 10 servings
Number Of Ingredients 15
Steps:
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
- Heat two tablespoons of olive oil and the butter in a skillet. Add one of the diced onions and the garlic. Cook until translucent. Remove from heat and cool.
- In a bowl, combine the veal chunks, tuna, capers, lime juice, eggs, salt, pepper, cooked onion and garlic and mix well.
- Place the roast on a cutting board. Unroll and spread the stuffing evenly over the meat, leaving a one-inch border all around.
- Carefully roll the roast, tightly wrapping it in a double thickness of cheesecloth, and tie it at one-and-a-half- inch intervals.
- In a large pot, add four tablespoons of olive oil and the remaining diced onion, carrots and celery, cook for five minutes, add the roast and stock, bring to a boil, cover and place in the oven for one and a half to two hours.
- Allow to cool to room temperature, then place, tightly covered, in the refrigerator overnight.
- When ready to serve, slice into quarter-inch slices.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 685, UnsaturatedFat 19 grams, Carbohydrate 22 grams, Fat 31 grams, Fiber 1 gram, Protein 74 grams, SaturatedFat 10 grams, Sodium 1574 milligrams, Sugar 9 grams, TransFat 0 grams
GOAT CHEESE, POTATO AND ONION TART
Goat cheese is a fave of my hubbies, and this tart is perfect for lunch with friends. From Delicious magazine, who sugessts you serve it with fresh rocket (arugula) leaves.
Provided by Ppaperdoll
Categories Lunch/Snacks
Time 1h
Yield 6 serving(s)
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- Heat oven to 190 degrees Celsius Roll out pastry to fit a deep 23cm loose bottomed tart tin. Wrap pastry carefully around rolling pin and unravel over tart tin. press gently around sides of tin. Chill 30 minutes, then line with greaseproof papter and fill with baking beans. Bake blind 15 minutes. Remove paper and beans and return tin to oven 5 minutes until pastry is golden. Remove tin from oven and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 180 degrees Celsius.
- Heat butter and oil in a large frying pan and add onions and potato. Cook gently 10-15 minutes, turning every so often until veg is golden and tender. Season to taste, then add garlic and thyme. Cook another 3 minutes. Tip filling into pastry case. Add goat's cheese and spread in an even layer.
- Whisk eggs and creme fraiche together. Season to taste and pour into pastry case. Bake 30-35 minutes until lightly golden brown. You may have to cover edges of pastry with foil half-way through to prevent pastry burning. Tart is done when center is just set. Serve warm.
GOAT CHEESE MASHED POTATOES
Provided by Ina Garten
Categories side-dish
Time 1h15m
Yield 6 to 8 servings
Number Of Ingredients 8
Steps:
- Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Place the potatoes, garlic and 1 tablespoon salt in a large pot with enough water to cover the potatoes. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, until very tender.
- Drain the potatoes and garlic and process them together through a food mill fitted with the coarsest blade set on top of a bowl. While the potatoes are still hot, stir in the goat cheese, butter, sour cream, half-and-half, 4 teaspoons salt and 2 teaspoons pepper until smooth.
- Pour the mixture into a 9-by-12-by-2-inch oval baking dish, smoothing the top. Sprinkle the Parmesan on top and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until lightly browned. Serve hot.
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