A cornerstone of Japanese cuisine, this basic kombu and bonito dashi from "Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking" by Naoko Takei Moore and Kyle Connaughton (Ten Speed Press, 2015) is full of umami but made from just two ingredients: kombu (dry kelp) and katsuobushi (smoked, dried bonito flakes). It has smoky, salty, savory notes and tastes restorative on its own, but more often contributes depth to many traditional Japanese recipes, used as one might use any other broth to build flavor. After infusing the water with the kombu and katsuobushi, avoid the temptation to press the katsuobushi to extract as much liquid as possible - doing so would alter the equilibrium of this delicate dashi, which tastes oceanic but not overtly fishy.
3/4 ounce/21 grams kombu (dried kelp), or the equivalent of 3 (4-inch-square) pieces
8 cups cold water, preferably filtered
3 very tightly packed cups/28 grams shaved katsuobushi (also called hana-katsuo; smoked and dried bonito flakes)
Steps:
Combine the kombu with the cold water in a donabe or Dutch oven and let soak for at least 20 minutes. (If time permits, soaking for 2 to 3 hours or up to overnight is even better. In this case, use a separate bowl for soaking, then transfer the contents to the donabe when they are ready.) When the kombu is soft, cut some slits in it with scissors so the kombu will release more flavor.
Set the donabe over medium-low heat and slowly bring the liquid with the kombu to a low simmer, about 30 minutes. Remove the kombu (see Tip).
Increase the heat to medium and bring the liquid to a high simmer, about 5 minutes, then immediately turn off the heat. Add the katsuobushi all at once, then let it settle under the surface of the liquid, about 2 minutes. Gently strain the dashi through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl. (Resist the temptation to press the katsuobushi to extract more flavor, or you'll end up with a dashi that tastes more overtly fishy than oceanic.) Dashi keeps, refrigerated, for a few days.
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