PHRIK PHON KHUA (TOASTED-CHILE POWDER)
_**Editor's Note:** Use this broth to make Andy Ricker's [Het Paa Naam Tok (Isaan-style Forest Mushroom Salad)](/recipes/food/views/51211430) ._ Flavor Profile: Spicy, slightly bitter and smoky Slowly toasted dried chiles-seeds and all-become a smoky, spicy ingredient that's essential to many recipes in [_Pok Pok_]. The key is to toast them over low heat until they're thoroughly dry and very dark, coaxing out a deep, tobacco-like flavor that has a bitter edge, but stopping before the pleasant bitterness turns acrid.
Provided by Andy Ricker
Yield Makes about 1/3 cup
Number Of Ingredients 1
Steps:
- The goal here is to cook the chiles slowly so they get nice and dark but don't burn. Consider opening a window and turning on your stove's exhaust fan.
- Put the chiles in a wok or pan, turn the heat to high to get the pan hot, then turn the heat down to medium-low to low.
- Stir the chiles almost constantly moving them around the wok and flipping them occasionally to make sure both sides of the chiles make contact with the hot pan. Keep at it until the chiles are very brittle and very dark brown (nearly black) all over, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the chiles from the pan as they're finished. Discard any seeds that escape the chiles, because they'll be burnt and bitter.
- Let the chiles cool. Pound them in a granite mortar to a coarse powder that's only slightly finer than store-bought red pepper flakes, or grind them in a spice grinder (or better yet, pass them twice through a meat grinder, first through a 1/4-inch die and then through an 1/8-inch die). Either way, take care to keep the powder coarse. Immediately put the chile powder in an airtight container or plastic bag.
- The chile powder will keep for up to a few months in a sealed container kept in a cool, dry place (not in the fridge), though the flavor will begin to deteriorate after several weeks.
KHAO KHUA (TOASTED-STICKY RICE POWDER)
Steps:
- Put the rice in a bowl, add enough water to cover by an inch or so, and let the rice soak at room temperature for at least 4 hours or overnight. (If you're in a rush, you can soak the rice in hot tap water for as little as 2 hours.) Drain the rice very well, then lay the rice out on kitchen towels until it's dry to the touch.
- Your goal is to toast the rice slowly so the grains toast all the way through before getting too dark on the outside, stirring constantly so the grains cook evenly. Put the rice in a large dry frying pan or wok and set the pan over medium-low to low heat.
- Cook, stirring almost constantly, until the rice is evenly golden brown. After 15 minutes or so, you should see the grains begin to change color. After 30 minutes or so, the grains will have turned light golden brown. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, they will be golden brown, close to the color of peanut butter, and have a very toasty aroma. Ideally, every grain will be the same color, but you'll inevitably have some grains that are slightly darker or lighter.
- Let the toasted rice cool slightly, then grind it in a spice grinder (or even better, in a burr grinder), in batches if necessary, until you have a powder with the texture of coarse sand or kosher salt.
- The powder keeps for several months in an airtight container in a cool, dry place (not the fridge), though the flavor will begin to deteriorate after several weeks.
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- 1. Sauté mushrooms in pan over high heat with oil until tender, sprinkling with a little kosher salt and pepper. Turn heat off. (There should be some liquid that forms in the pan; this is good!) Leave it and the mushrooms in the pan. Allow to cool slightly until just hot to the touch.
- 3. Add shallots or red onion, mint, cilantro and sticky rice powder and stir gently with large spoon, and transfer to a serving plate making sure to pull some of the herbs towards the top.
- 4. Sprinkle with a few sprigs of mint and cilantro, a bit more toasted rice powder and chile powder. Herbs and shallots should not be cooked and soggy!
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