ROUILLE
I have always thought that the best part of fish soup is the rouille, a peppery, garlicky sauce that is slathered on toasted rounds of baguette and floated on the surface of the soup. I also like to stir some rouille into the broth. Similar to the Provençal aioli, a garlic-flavored mayonnaise, rouille is flavored with hot pepper and saffron, which give it its signature rust color. (Rouille literally means "rust" in French.) Today I have noticed that North African Jews often spice up their rouille even more, by adding a little harissa (see page 33) to it. Traditionally, a mortar and pestle are used to pound the garlic, pepper, and egg yolk, gradually incorporating the oil to make a mayonnaise. Today it is easy to put everything in a food processor and slowly add the oil, drop by drop. Leftover sauce is good on sandwiches or as a dip.
Yield about 1 1/2 cups
Number Of Ingredients 9
Steps:
- Put the egg yolks and the lemon juice in a small food processor equipped with a steel blade. Drizzle in the oil very slowly, to emulsify into a smooth mayonnaise.
- Then peel the garlic and add it to the mayonnaise along with the salt, white pepper, saffron, bread crumbs, and the cayenne or harissa. Purée all the ingredients together.
- Adjust seasonings to taste. If the rouille is not thick enough, blend some cooked potatoes into the sauce.
MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN'S ROUILLE
This variation is served with bouillabaisse and other fish soups. I like it with just about anything that aioli is good with.
Provided by Martha Rose Shulman
Categories condiments
Time 30m
Yield 1 1/2 cups
Number Of Ingredients 8
Steps:
- Whether or not you are using a mortar and pestle for the mayonnaise, begin by mashing the garlic and salt together in a mortar and pestle. Mash to a smooth paste.
- When you have mashed the garlic, add the saffron and the cayenne or hot pepper and mash together. Proceed with making the mayonnaise as directed.
- Using the mortar and pestle (for egg yolks only; this is the traditional method, and will result in a very silky, creamy aioli if you do it correctly):
- Add the egg yolks to the mortar and beat with the pestle until smooth. Measure the grapeseed oil into a measuring cup with a spout, and drip by drip, work the oil into the egg yolks, gently but constantly stirring in one direction with the pestle. As the mayonnaise begins to emulsify, you can start adding the oil in a steady stream, but the stream must be a thin one, and you must stir constantly but not too fast. Once you have a good emulsion, you can scrape the mixture into a bowl and continue with a whisk if it's easier for you. It helps to rest the bowl on a damp towel shaped into a ring. Use up the grapeseed oil first, since it makes a better emulsion than olive oil, then continue with the olive oil. I find that once the egg yolks and oil are emulsified, it's easiest to drizzle in a tablespoonful of oil while beating, stop drizzling and really beat hard to work it in, then continue with another tablespoonful. When all of the oil has been added and the mayonnaise is thick, taste and adjust salt. Refrigerate until ready to use.
- Using a food processor: Place the egg yolks or egg and egg white in a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Turn it on, and begin drizzling in the grapeseed oil, then the olive oil, in a thin stream. Some food processors have little holes in the plungers meant for controlling the flow of oil into the mayonnaise. When all of the oil has been added, stop the processor and scrape in the garlic paste. Process for a few seconds, until the paste is well blended into the mixture. Taste and adjust salt. Refrigerate until ready to use. The mayonnaise will be thinner than the mortar and pestle version.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 255, UnsaturatedFat 24 grams, Carbohydrate 1 gram, Fat 28 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 1 gram, SaturatedFat 3 grams, Sodium 83 milligrams, Sugar 0 grams
GOUGERE
This recipe, a Florence Fabricant classic, came to The Times in 1983. It is "one of those minor miracles, like a souffle, made possible only by eggs," she writes. Serve these cheesy, airy bites as an hors d'oeuvre, or take Florence's suggestion and pair them with a soup or baked ham - or fill them with softly scrambled eggs. Either way, they're sure to please even the pickiest guests.
Provided by Florence Fabricant
Categories brunch, side dish
Time 1h10m
Yield 6 to 8 servings
Number Of Ingredients 9
Steps:
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a nine-inch flan ring or a cake tin that has a removable bottom.
- Combine water, salt and butter in a saucepan. Simmer until the butter melts, then bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the paste is smooth and leaves the sides of the pan. Place over low heat and cook, stirring, until the mixture begins to film the bottom of the pan.
- Remove from heat and beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well to thoroughly incorporate each. (The paste can be put into the bowl of a food processor and the eggs added one at a time and processed with the steel blade until blended.)
- Transfer paste to a mixing bowl and add the remaining ingredients. Spoon rounded tablespoons of this mixture close together in a ring inside the cake ring or flan ring. Place in the middle of the oven and bake for about one hour, until the gougere is brown and firm to the touch. Cool briefly and serve.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 273, UnsaturatedFat 7 grams, Carbohydrate 13 grams, Fat 20 grams, Fiber 1 gram, Protein 11 grams, SaturatedFat 12 grams, Sodium 237 milligrams, Sugar 0 grams, TransFat 0 grams
ROUILLE
Provided by Amanda Hesser
Categories condiments, sauces and gravies
Time 45m
Yield 1 cup
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Place vinegar in a very small pan over medium-low heat. When vinegar is hot, remove pan from heat and add saffron. Steep 20 minutes. Add lemon juice; mix well.
- Place egg yolk in a deep, medium mixing bowl. With a large whisk, beat about 15 seconds. Add the saffron mixture, salt and garlic, and whisk 30 seconds. Then, whisking vigorously, slowly add the oil in a thin stream. Whisk until the sauce is very thick. Adjust seasonings. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Nutrition Facts : @context http, Calories 256, UnsaturatedFat 23 grams, Carbohydrate 1 gram, Fat 28 grams, Fiber 0 grams, Protein 1 gram, SaturatedFat 4 grams, Sodium 77 milligrams, Sugar 0 grams
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