CHOUCROUTE DE POISSON AU BEURRE BLANC
One morning, as my editor, Judith Jones, and I were wandering around the streets of Strasbourg looking for a cell-phone store, I bumped into three young men having a smoke outside a restaurant. I saw "Crocodile" written on their chefs' jackets and asked if Emil Jung, the chef-owner and a friend of a friend, was in the restaurant. They said he was and told me just to go knock on the door to say hello. We did; three hours later, we left the restaurant having been wined and dined beautifully by him and his lovely wife, Monique. One of their Alsatian specialties is fish choucroute (sauerkraut) with heavenly beurre-blanc sauce, a dish appreciated by customers who follow the laws of kashrut. In Strasbourg, where everybody eats sauerkraut, there is even a Choucrouterie theater and restaurant built on an old sauerkraut factory. Roger Siffert, the affable director of this bilingual (Alsatian dialect and French) cabaret theater, says that they serve seven varieties of choucroute, including fish for observant Jews. "With words like pickelfleisch and shmatteh existing in both Yiddish and Alsatian," said Siffert, "people should reach out to what is similar, not separate. In Alsace we call Jews 'our Jews.' "
Yield 6 to 8 servings
Number Of Ingredients 18
Steps:
- Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan, and sauté the onion and the cabbage until the cabbage is wilted and the onion is translucent.
- Stir the sauerkraut into the onion and cabbage. Add 1 cup of the white wine, the juniper berries, 1/2 cup of the fish stock, the thyme, the bay leaf, and the freshly ground black pepper to taste. Simmer, uncovered, for about 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed but the cabbage is still crunchy. Fish out the bay leaf, stir in the cilantro, and transfer to a flat ovenproof casserole.
- To make the beurre blanc, sauté the shallots in 1 tablespoon of the butter in a saucepan for a few minutes. Add the remaining 1/3 cup white wine, the vinegar, and the remaining 4 cups fish stock, and cook, whisking, to reduce by more than half. Then add the remaining butter, piece by piece, whisking all the time. Add the lemon juice, and salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste. Set aside.
- Season the fish with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Quickly sear the fillets in a nonstick frying pan in the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Place on top of the sauerkraut, and heat in the oven for about 5 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. While the fish is baking, reheat the beurre-blanc sauce. Serve topped with the warm sauce, with steamed potatoes on the side.
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