MULTIPURPOSE MEAT PASTE
A cornerstone of Vietnamese cooking, this smooth meat paste is the most important recipe in the charcuterie repertoire and forms the base of three sausages in this chapter. It is also used to make meatballs (page 86), acts as the binder for Stuffed Snails Steamed with Lemongrass (page 42), and may be shaped into dumplings similar to French quenelles and poached in a quick canh-style soup (page 61). This recipe, which calls for chicken rather than the traditional pork, is my mother's modern American approach to gio. Chicken, a luxury meat in Vietnam that is affordable here, is easier to work with and yields a particularly delicately flavored and textured paste. Additionally, chicken breasts and thighs are readily available at supermarkets, while pork leg, the cut typically used, isn't. A recipe for the pork paste appears in the Note that follows.
Yield makes about 2 1/2 pounds
Number Of Ingredients 7
Steps:
- Slice each breast and thigh across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick strips. When cutting the breast tenders, remove and discard the silvery strip of tendon. Keep any visible fat for richness, but trim away any cartilage or sinewy bits, as they won't grind well.
- To make the marinade, in a bowl large enough to fit the chicken, whisk together the baking powder, tapioca starch, sugar, fish sauce, and oil. Add the chicken and use a rubber spatula to mix well. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to overnight. The chicken will stiffen as it sits.
- Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and use a spoon to break it apart. Working in batches, grind the chicken in a food processor until a smooth, stiff, light pink paste forms. (This step takes several minutes and the machine will get a good workout.) Stop the machine occasionally to scrape down the sides. When you are finished, there should be no visible bits of chicken and the paste should have a slight sheen. Using the rubber spatula, transfer each batch to another bowl, taking care to clean well under the blade.
- The paste is ready to use, or it can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days. For long-term keeping, divide it into 1/2- and 1-pound portions (a scant 1 cup paste weighs 1/2 pound), wrap in a double layer of plastic wrap, and freeze for up to 2 months.
- To make giò the old-fashioned way, you must first hand pound the meat and then add the marinade ingredients. Use a large Thai stone mortar and pestle, which can be found reasonably priced at Asian restaurant-supply and housewares shops. My 9-inch-wide mortar has a 5-cup capacity bowl that is 6 1/2 inches wide and 4 inches deep. The 8-inch-long pestle is about 2 inches wide at the base. Select a pestle that fits your hand comfortably. (Stone pestles, heavier than the wooden one mentioned in the chapter introduction, make pounding easier.)
- To minimize physical strain, I sit on a low kitchen stool and put the mortar on a solid table or box, with the rim of the mortar slightly below my knee. You may also sit on the floor with the mortar between your legs. Place a thick towel under the mortar to protect the work surface. Regardless of your setup, you want to sit astride the mortar and efficiently use your upper body strength to work the pestle. It takes about 35 minutes to produce a full batch of paste, so you may want to halve the recipe. To yield giò that is close to the traditional version, pound pork (see Note, above), which works better than chicken. The beef mixture used for making Beef, Dill, and Peppercorn Sausage (page 161) is also a good candidate for hand pounding.
- Cut the meat into 1/4-inch-thick strips as instructed in the recipe. Blot the meat dry with paper towels to prevent it from sliding around the mortar.
- In a small bowl, whisk together the marinade ingredients. Set aside near the pounding station. (Hand-pounded giò doesn't traditionally call for leavener and starch, but I find that they guarantee a silkier result that is neither too dense nor too firm.)
- Put about 1/2 pound of the meat (or a quantity you find manageable) in the mortar and start pounding with a steady rhythm, pausing only to remove any gristly bits that come loose. After about 4 minutes, the meat should have gathered into a mass and, perhaps, even stuck to the pestle, allowing you to use the pestle to lift the meat from the mortar and pound it down again. Keep pounding for another 2 minutes to make the meat cohere into a smooth mass that resembles a ball of dough. Use a rubber spatula or plastic dough scraper to transfer the meat to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining meat.
- Add all the marinade ingredients to the meat, stirring with a fork until the marinade is no longer visible. In batches, pound the meat for about 3 minutes longer to combine all the ingredients well. You should hear a suction noise as air is mixed in. The finished paste will feel firm and look ragged, and small nuggets of meat will be suspended in the paste. Transfer the paste to a clean bowl and repeat with the remaining meat.
EASY KIELBASA SKILLET DINNER
The house always smells awesome while this very tasty, filling meal is cooking. It makes kielbasa worth stocking up on when it goes on sale and uses basic/cheap ingredients overall. Vary the vegetables depending on what you have on hand. For example add/replace broccoli with a can of corn and/or peas, etc. If you like a little heat, sprinkle a little hot sauce on top after it's cooked. This should make about 4 servings, but it almost always turns out to be split into 2 large servings between the me and the boyfriend. We like to crisp up/brown the kielbasa slightly before adding the vegetables.
Provided by Luna
Categories Meat and Poultry Recipes Pork Sausage
Time 55m
Yield 4
Number Of Ingredients 6
Steps:
- Spray a large skillet with cooking spray and heat over medium-low heat. Cook and stir onion in the hot skillet until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add kielbasa; fry until sausage is lightly browned, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes more.
- Stir broccoli and potatoes into sausage mixture; season with salt and pepper. Cook, without stirring, until broccoli begins to soften, about 15 minutes. Stir mixture and continue to cook until vegetables are completely tender, 10 to 15 minutes more.
Nutrition Facts : Calories 492 calories, Carbohydrate 34.9 g, Cholesterol 74.9 mg, Fat 31.3 g, Fiber 4.7 g, Protein 18.3 g, SaturatedFat 10.5 g, Sodium 1049.5 mg, Sugar 4.3 g
BEEF, DILL, AND PEPPERCORN SAUSAGE
The term giò is used not only for the ubiquitous meat paste, but also for describing any charcuterie that is log shaped. Most giò-style charcuterie is wrapped in banana leaf, including this wonderful sausage spiked with dill and crushed black peppercorns. Because beef is a luxury meat in Vietnam, giò bo is a special treat. It is not commonly sold at delis and markets, which is fine because it is simple to make at home. Lean top round steak (a.k.a. London broil) yields great flavor and a fine texture.
Yield makes one 1 1/4-pound sausage
Number Of Ingredients 10
Steps:
- Cut the beef across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick strips (like you would for a stir-fry).
- To make the marinade, in a bowl, whisk together the baking powder, tapioca starch, sugar, fish sauce, oil, and water. Add the beef and use a rubber spatula to mix well. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to overnight. The beef will stiffen as it sits.
- Remove the meat from the refrigerator and use a spoon to break it apart. Using a large-capacity food processor, grind all the meat at once, stopping the machine occasionally to scrape down the sides. When the meat has been transformed into a stiff and somewhat coarse paste (fine bits of meat are still visible), stop the machine. Add the dill and pepper and restart the machine to finish grinding the mixture to a smooth, stiff mauve paste. Using the rubber spatula, transfer the mixture to another bowl, taking care to clean well under the blade. (If you have only a small food processor, grind in 2 batches, dividing the dill and pepper in half.) Grinding the meat will take several minutes and will give your machine a workout.
- Fill a 4- or 5-quart pot two-thirds full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cover to keep warm.
- To shape and wrap the sausage, put a 12-by-18-inch piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil on your work surface with a short side closest to you. Center the piece of banana leaf on the foil. Use a rubber spatula to deposit the paste near the bottom edge of the leaf (the edge closest to you), roughly shaping it into a fat 5-inch-long log. Do not get any paste on the foil. Roll up the leaf to encase the paste, creating a cylinder 3 inches in diameter. Place the cylinder at one of the short ends of the foil and roll it up, letting the foil naturally overlap to form a silver tube. Finish by sealing the ends closed and then folding them toward the center. Because the paste expands during cooking, you need to tie the package with kitchen string to secure it. In general, a cross tie followed by another loop around the sausage-much like tying a very small roast-works well. There is no need to be fancy, but you do want to ensure the shape and compactness of the paste, so make sure the string is taut.
- Return the pot of water to a boil. Drop in the sausage and boil for 45 minutes, replenishing with extra boiling water as needed. During cooking, the foil will darken and the sausage will puff up, push against the string, and eventually float. Don't be alarmed; it will deflate afterward.
- Use tongs to remove the cooked sausage from the pot. Let cool completely before untying and removing the foil. Keep the banana leaf in place. Put the sausage in an airtight container or zip-top plastic bag and refrigerate until serving. It will keep for up to 1 week, but as with the previous sausage, it is at its best soon after cooking, when the flavor of the banana leaf still lingers on the meat.
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