Baked Cardoons My Way Recipes

BUTTER-BRAISED CARDOONS WITH MUSHROOMS AND BREAD CRUMBS

Steps:

• Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it moderately. Strip the cardoons of leaves and string as you would celery. Cut each stalk lengthwise into 2 or 3 long strips, then crosswise into 2-inch lengths. You'll have about 3 cups. Squeeze the lemon juice into the water and boil the cardoons until fairly tender, 10 to 12 minutes; drain and rinse.
• Melt the butter over medium heat in a skillet wide enough to accommodate the cardoons comfortably. When the foam subsides, add the cardoons, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until they take on a bit of color, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the garlic and mushrooms and continue to cook until the mushrooms are mostly tender, 5 minutes. Add the bread crumbs and a pinch of salt and raise the heat to medium-high; cook, stirring occasionally, until the bread crumbs brown a bit and the cardoons are fully tender and sweet, 5 minutes longer.
• Squeeze a bit of lemon juice over the top, taste for salt, add pepper to taste and serve hot or warm.

BAKED CARDOONS MY WAY

Steps:

• Before trimming the cardoon head, fill a large bowl with 1 1/2 quarts cold water, squeeze in the juice of the lemon, and drop in the cut lemon halves.
• Snap off the outer stalks at the base, discarding any bruised or tough and overmature stalks (usually 4 inches or wider). Keep separating stalks until you get to the heart, a pale cluster of tender stalks and leaves. Trim the base of the heart stalks so they separate, cut crosswise in 3-inch pieces, and drop in the acidulated water.
• Now trim the larger, separated stalks one at a time. First peel or cut the long edges, removing all the sharp-pointed leaves (they get softer on inner stalks). Trim the top and base of the stalk, as with celery, and pull up the strings that run along the outside. Shave off the remaining fuzzy skin with the vegetable peeler. Finally, remove the pale, transparent skin that covers the inside: lift it at one end with the knife point, and peel away in long ribbons. Cut the trimmed stalk crosswise into 3-inch pieces, and immerse them in the lemon water while you cut up the rest.
• Bring 3 quarts water to the boil in a large saucepan. Lift the cardoon pieces from the lemon water, drop into the pot, and cook until soft and tender (and to extract some bitterness), at least 30 minutes, and an hour or more for thick pieces. Remove the pieces as each is done (heart pieces first), and drain in a colander. Preheat the oven to 375˚. Smear 2 tablespoons or so of the butter on the bottom and sides of the baking dish, coating it generously. Melt the remaining butter. Lay cardoon pieces flat in the dish, covering the bottom in a single layer; sprinkle about 1/4 teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons grated cheese all over, and drizzle 2 tablespoons melted butter over that. Make another layer of cardoon (or two more, if you have lots of pieces), and top with salt, cheese, and butter. Sprinkle 1/3 cup grated cheese on the top layer of cardoon, or more, covering it completely.
• Lay a sheet of aluminum foil over the dish, and crimp it loosely against the sides. Bake for 30 minutes, remove the foil, and bake another 10 minutes, until the cardoon is lightly caramelized and bubbling and the gratinate topping is golden. Serve hot.
• California-grown cardoons (sometimes called cardone) appear in our supermarkets in the winter months. The large heads are gray-green and resemble giant heads of celery. They won't be crisp like celery, but should look fresh and feel heavy and moist. However, they often have many tough stalks, which I discard completely. A rough rule of thumb is to buy 1 pound of cardi for each two portions. To minimize discard, try to buy several lighter cardoon heads, 2 1/2 pounds or under, rather than one big head, to get a greater proportion of slender, inner stalks. In any case, you'll need to trim the stalks and parcook them as detailed in the recipe.